Any of the ProForce shafts under $20. I put a ProForce in my Moms driver/3w and I liked hitting it. It was under $20 - the grey/black colored model.
Really, most shafts are a great value - just spend what you want to spend within a reputable name. I sincerely doubt there is much detectable difference between a $30 shaft and a $300 shaft in ordinary hands.
Dave
bamafamily wrote:> Hey All,>
I will be getting some type of driver in the very near future and have> read a lot of talk where the shaft is equal if not more important than> the head itself. I am looking for the best bang-for-the-buck graphite> shaft based on the data below.>
I will be getting some type of driver in the very near future and have> read a lot of talk where the shaft is equal if not more important than> the head itself. I am looking for the best bang-for-the-buck graphite> shaft based on the data below.>
I am assuming a regular shaft, but I get lost as to the kickpoint,> weight, etc..>
bama>
There's no objective way to answer this.
If you want the highest quality shaft there is, get a Fujikura Speeder (several models). The cost for a reshaft with a Fuji Speeder is, IIRC, only $350. Heck of a shaft.
Too high in price? Given your parameters, you might consider the Grafalloy Prolite 45 in regular. That retails for under $30, and I've found it to be a good alternative.
To be honest with you (and honesty is what you want, right?), any relatively inexpensive shaft will do OK for you.
Mike
-- ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Mike Dalecki GCA Accredited Clubmaker http://clubdoctor.com RSG-Wisconsin 2005 Info: June 24-26 http://dalecki.net/rsgwis2005/ ------------------------------------------------------------------------
"Mike Dalecki" <mike@dalecki.net> wrote in message news:3eousdF3rvs8U1@individual.net...> bamafamily wrote:> > Hey All,> >
I will be getting some type of driver in the very near future and have> > read a lot of talk where the shaft is equal if not more important than> > the head itself. I am looking for the best bang-for-the-buck graphite> > shaft based on the data below.> >
I am assuming a regular shaft, but I get lost as to the kickpoint,> > weight, etc..> >
bama> >
There's no objective way to answer this.>
If you want the highest quality shaft there is, get a Fujikura Speeder> (several models). The cost for a reshaft with a Fuji Speeder is, IIRC,> only $350. Heck of a shaft.>
Too high in price? Given your parameters, you might consider the> Grafalloy Prolite 45 in regular. That retails for under $30, and I've> found it to be a good alternative.>
To be honest with you (and honesty is what you want, right?), any> relatively inexpensive shaft will do OK for you.>
Mike>
-- > ------------------------------------------------------------------------> Mike Dalecki GCA Accredited Clubmaker http://clubdoctor.com> RSG-Wisconsin 2005 Info: June 24-26 http://dalecki.net/rsgwis2005/> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hey Mike,
Just a quick question. What is a good general rule as to kick point in driver shafts vs. swing speed?
I have two indentical driver models, both with regular flex shafts, one has a mid flex point and the other has a low flex kick point. I have found that the mid flex gives a bit better accuracy that the low flex, but I get a little better distance with low flex vs. the mid flex.
Would the general rule be that the higher the swing speed the higher the flex point needed or what?
So far my ventures into the Dark Side has been restricted solely to regriping as I just don't have the time as yet to delve further into the Dark Side, but the pull of the Dark Side is powerful and at some point in the future I won't be able to resist any further, -- Doyce
Doyce McIlveene wrote:> "Mike Dalecki" <mike@dalecki.net> wrote in message> news:3eousdF3rvs8U1@individual.net...>
bamafamily wrote:>>
Hey All,>>>
I will be getting some type of driver in the very near future and have>>>read a lot of talk where the shaft is equal if not more important than>>>the head itself. I am looking for the best bang-for-the-buck graphite>>>shaft based on the data below.>>>
I am assuming a regular shaft, but I get lost as to the kickpoint,>>>weight, etc..>>>
bama>>>
There's no objective way to answer this.>>
If you want the highest quality shaft there is, get a Fujikura Speeder>>(several models). The cost for a reshaft with a Fuji Speeder is, IIRC,>>only $350. Heck of a shaft.>>
Too high in price? Given your parameters, you might consider the>>Grafalloy Prolite 45 in regular. That retails for under $30, and I've>>found it to be a good alternative.>>
To be honest with you (and honesty is what you want, right?), any>>relatively inexpensive shaft will do OK for you.>>
Just a quick question. What is a good general rule as to kick point in> driver shafts vs. swing speed?>
I have two indentical driver models, both with regular flex shafts, one has> a mid flex point and the other has a low flex kick point. I have found that> the mid flex gives a bit better accuracy that the low flex, but I get a> little better distance with low flex vs. the mid flex.>
Would the general rule be that the higher the swing speed the higher the> flex point needed or what?
That's the general rule. And you have it right about distance versus accuracy.
So far my ventures into the Dark Side has been restricted solely to> regriping as I just don't have the time as yet to delve further into the> Dark Side, but the pull of the Dark Side is powerful and at some point in> the future I won't be able to resist any further,
Oh, I'm sure you can find the time. All it takes is a few minutes ordering from a catalog. It's nothing, really.
Mike
-- ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Mike Dalecki GCA Accredited Clubmaker http://clubdoctor.com RSG-Wisconsin 2005 Info: June 24-26 http://dalecki.net/rsgwis2005/ ------------------------------------------------------------------------
"bamafamily" <bamafamily@knology.net> wrote in message news:1116218125.510661.217200@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...> Dave,> I am contemplating a clone driver..(totally different flame war...I> know)> The default shaft they put on it is a UST PHG 100. (75g, mid bend, 4.4> torque) You can upgrade to the UST Proforce (55,65,75) for $9.50...>
What does the weight on the shaft do for you?? What aspect does it> mostly control??>
bama
Of all the big things that shaft are characterized by, it's one I don't have a good answer for. It affects the club's final weight and swingweight. The general idea is that lighter shafts are somehow better for generating distance, and higher weights are more control. Many pros accustomed to steel (110-120g) find the switch to graphite more forgiving if their shaft is in the 75-90g range, and it doesn't hurt that the heavier graphites can handle more abuse. Most shafts in new clubs are in the 60-75g range. In the end, I haven't recommended anything. The PHG100 is a fine shaft, and will probably be just as long as the Proforce, but if you want to 'upgrade', give the Proforce 65 a try.
"bamafamily" <bamafamily@knology.net> wrote in message news:1116136050.519439.144920@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...> Hey All,>
I will be getting some type of driver in the very near future and have> read a lot of talk where the shaft is equal if not more important than> the head itself. I am looking for the best bang-for-the-buck graphite> shaft based on the data below.>
On Sun, 15 May 2005 22:47:50 -0500, "Doyce McIlveene" <dbmcilveene@cox.net> wrote:
As far as deving further into the Dark Side, I have burned my Golfsmith and> Golfworks catalogs as a temporarily preventative measure to the pull of the> Dark Side.
