Anyone here made their own (or know someone) putting green north of the 54th? I just cleared a big area and my boys and I thought it would be a nice place for a putting green, but the winter temps here can reach -40 so I'm not sure how feasible it is. I did a bit of reading on putting-greens.com, but most of the stuff there is for more temperate climates.
The ground in question is pretty hard clay, but very well drained and sloped slightly so I'm thinking I could forego the 12" of gravel and weeping tile etc.. I also have a good supply of fairly "dirty" sand in the lot kitty corner from me, not to coarse and not to fine. The only time I saw a putting green in construction (it had just been seeded) I was surprised at how coarse the sand was, almost a fine gravel actually, so I am wondering if the sand I can get may be to fine.
Aslo with bentgrass, is there certain strains of it more suited to these temps and conditions? I am thinking there must be as a lot of the courses up here used to have sand greens but are now switched over to grass greens.
Matt 'Ocho' Aamold 28 April 2005 00:07:02 [ permanent link ]
GS wrote:> Anyone here made their own (or know someone) putting green north of the > 54th? I just cleared a big area and my boys and I thought it would be a > nice place for a putting green, but the winter temps here can reach -40 > so I'm not sure how feasible it is. I did a bit of reading on > putting-greens.com, but most of the stuff there is for more temperate > climates.>
The ground in question is pretty hard clay, but very well drained and > sloped slightly so I'm thinking I could forego the 12" of gravel and > weeping tile etc.. I also have a good supply of fairly "dirty" sand in > the lot kitty corner from me, not to coarse and not to fine. The only > time I saw a putting green in construction (it had just been seeded) I > was surprised at how coarse the sand was, almost a fine gravel actually, > so I am wondering if the sand I can get may be to fine.>
Aslo with bentgrass, is there certain strains of it more suited to these > temps and conditions? I am thinking there must be as a lot of the > courses up here used to have sand greens but are now switched over to > grass greens.>
TIA
Greens are expensive MF's. Go with a synthetic green
Anyone here made their own (or know someone) putting green north of >> the 54th? I just cleared a big area and my boys and I thought it would >> be a nice place for a putting green, but the winter temps here can >> reach -40 so I'm not sure how feasible it is. I did a bit of reading >> on putting-greens.com, but most of the stuff there is for more >> temperate climates.>>
The ground in question is pretty hard clay, but very well drained and >> sloped slightly so I'm thinking I could forego the 12" of gravel and >> weeping tile etc.. I also have a good supply of fairly "dirty" sand in >> the lot kitty corner from me, not to coarse and not to fine. The only >> time I saw a putting green in construction (it had just been seeded) I >> was surprised at how coarse the sand was, almost a fine gravel >> actually, so I am wondering if the sand I can get may be to fine.>>
Aslo with bentgrass, is there certain strains of it more suited to >> these temps and conditions? I am thinking there must be as a lot of >> the courses up here used to have sand greens but are now switched over >> to grass greens.>>
Greens are expensive MF's. Go with a synthetic green>
Still willing to try it, I enjoy doing things like this and the upkeep doesnt bother me, worst case scenario if it doesnt pan out is I'll have a nice patch of lawn to enjoy..
As near as we can tell, it was on 4/27/2005 1:30 PM when GS transmitted as follows:
You can easily build the thing, and seed the proper grass. Most northern courses start out with Bent, or a variant, or Poa Annua. The trick will be maintenence.
What will you use for a mower? What will be your aeration schedule? What about the chemicals (Anti fungus, anti insect, etc.? And you'll need one of those special tarps that provide protection from snow cover
A decent green that you can use to practice putting will have to be mowed several times a week. If you just want to use it for a target for chipping practice, you don't need to build a full green. All you need to do is develop a good thick crop of grass and mow it to fairway height.
-- Doug Main "Hard work never killed anyone. But why take the chance?" -Roy, metal worker, American Hotrod.
"GS" <spam@spam.com> wrote in message news:%KRbe.3080$0X6.497@edtnps90...> Anyone here made their own (or know someone) putting green north of the > 54th? I just cleared a big area and my boys and I thought it would be a > nice place for a putting green, but the winter temps here can reach -40 so > I'm not sure how feasible it is. I did a bit of reading on > putting-greens.com, but most of the stuff there is for more temperate > climates.>
The ground in question is pretty hard clay, but very well drained and > sloped slightly so I'm thinking I could forego the 12" of gravel and > weeping tile etc.. I also have a good supply of fairly "dirty" sand in the > lot kitty corner from me, not to coarse and not to fine. The only time I > saw a putting green in construction (it had just been seeded) I was > surprised at how coarse the sand was, almost a fine gravel actually, so I > am wondering if the sand I can get may be to fine.>
Aslo with bentgrass, is there certain strains of it more suited to these > temps and conditions? I am thinking there must be as a lot of the courses > up here used to have sand greens but are now switched over to grass > greens.>
TIA
I looked into building one a while back but I just couldn't imagine spending the time to do the mainenance when with a decent synthetic green, the upkeep time would be cut by 98% and over time would cost much less when you factor in the cost of the mower, pesticides etc. Steve
You need to keep the clay as far away from the grass as possible which will require drains, more than a few inches of gravel, and a sand. Clay doesn't drain. It gets saturated. To much moisture promotes all kinds of bad stuff like rot and fungus. Ask any superintend in the area are the challenges of pile-up greens on clay.
You do realize that the green must be cut every day and will need a greens mower before you plant the grass as you have to start cutting early to train the grass.
"GS" <spam@spam.com> wrote in message news:%KRbe.3080$0X6.497@edtnps90...> Anyone here made their own (or know someone) putting green north of > the 54th? I just cleared a big area and my boys and I thought it would > be a nice place for a putting green, but the winter temps here can > reach -40 so I'm not sure how feasible it is. I did a bit of reading > on putting-greens.com, but most of the stuff there is for more > temperate climates.>
The ground in question is pretty hard clay, but very well drained and > sloped slightly so I'm thinking I could forego the 12" of gravel and > weeping tile etc.. I also have a good supply of fairly "dirty" sand in > the lot kitty corner from me, not to coarse and not to fine. The only > time I saw a putting green in construction (it had just been seeded) I > was surprised at how coarse the sand was, almost a fine gravel > actually, so I am wondering if the sand I can get may be to fine.>
Aslo with bentgrass, is there certain strains of it more suited to > these temps and conditions? I am thinking there must be as a lot of > the courses up here used to have sand greens but are now switched over > to grass greens.>
Doug Main wrote:> As near as we can tell, it was on 4/27/2005 1:30 PM when GS transmitted > as follows:>
You can easily build the thing, and seed the proper grass. Most > northern courses start out with Bent, or a variant, or Poa Annua. The > trick will be maintenence.
I'll have to check around and see if I can find some bentgrass seed, but I thought the Poa was more of a weed and therefore undesirable?>
What will you use for a mower? What will be your aeration schedule? > What about the chemicals (Anti fungus, anti insect, etc.? And you'll > need one of those special tarps that provide protection from snow cover
I'll pick up a manual reel-type, the area is only about 2/3 the size of a standard green so its not to bad, I used to cut a lot bigger than that as a kid with one of those heavy old manual reel mowers...As for the rest, I'll read up on it some more and do whats neccesary.
A decent green that you can use to practice putting will have to be > mowed several times a week. If you just want to use it for a target for > chipping practice, you don't need to build a full green. All you need > to do is develop a good thick crop of grass and mow it to fairway height.>
"GS" <spam@spam.com> wrote in message news:5jUbe.3331$0X6.807@edtnps90...
I'll pick up a manual reel-type, the area is only about 2/3 the size > of a standard green so its not to bad, I used to cut a lot bigger than > that as a kid with one of those heavy old manual reel mowers...As for > the rest, I'll read up on it some more and do whats neccesary.>
As near as we can tell, it was on 4/27/2005 1:30 PM when GS>
transmitted>
as follows:>>>
You can easily build the thing, and seed the proper grass. Most>>>northern courses start out with Bent, or a variant, or Poa Annua.>
trick will be maintenence.>>
I'll have to check around and see if I can find some bentgrass seed,>
I thought the Poa was more of a weed and therefore undesirable?>
Poa Annua is a monocot like bent or ryegrass (turfgrass) - but it's not> usually sold in seed form...plus it's really succeptable to ice damage> over the winter, so it's probably not the best option for a backyard> green.>
Your best option in terms of longevity is to sod in Kentucky Bluegrass> (and would work really well for the fairways/chipping areas around the> green). It'll take the quickest, allowing you to get the most out of> your season...but as for putting - well, unless you can find someone> who's selling sod dwarf KY Blue (which is about as likely as finding> poa seed), you'd never be able to cut it down to a real putting height.> Creeping bentgrass might be your only option, but from what I> understand, it doesn't like clay-based soils very much; the lack of> drainage pools the water, which buggers up the stolons it reproduces> with.>
My advice to you is to go visit your course's superintendent and buy> him a coffee. He'll tell you what works in your area and what doesn't.> Where is your area, by the way?>
As near as we can tell, it was on 4/28/2005 11:42 AM when GS transmitted as follows:
My advice to you is to go visit your course's superintendent and buy>> him a coffee. He'll tell you what works in your area and what doesn't.>> Where is your area, by the way?>>
Northern Alberta
I tell you, after today, with 40 MPH wind, a skiff of snow, and temps in the single digits, I don't think anything will grow here. -- Doug Main "Hard work never killed anyone. But why take the chance?" -Roy, metal worker, American Hotrod.
Doug Main wrote:> As near as we can tell, it was on 4/28/2005 11:42 AM when GS transmitted > as follows:>
My advice to you is to go visit your course's superintendent and buy>>> him a coffee. He'll tell you what works in your area and what doesn't.>>> Where is your area, by the way?>>>
Northern Alberta>
I tell you, after today, with 40 MPH wind, a skiff of snow, and temps in > the single digits, I don't think anything will grow here.
Right now I am looking at a helluva snowstorm, -5(c) temps and the local course that opened last weekend has rolled the tarps back over the greens.
But thats spring in Alberta...you get used to it after 12 years
My advice to you is to go visit your course's superintendent and>
him a coffee. He'll tell you what works in your area and what>
doesn't.>
Where is your area, by the way?>>>
Northern Alberta>
...ah. Okay. *Definitely* go see your local supe, especially if by> Northern Alberta you mean Fort McMurray as opposed to, say, Edmonton.> My limited understanding of turfgrass management is pretty much limited> to what'll grow in lower, warmer climes (the Maritimes and NE USA).> The supe should be able to tell you about what holds up to a real> winter.>
Just try not to smack him when he says "go synthetic" >
Good luck, Todd>
Actually, 1/2 between the two places. I know they are possible up here, as the courses have quite nice greens. I will see if I can contact the local greenskeeper and get some info from him tho...
Synthetic doesnt interest me in the least, my kids are the golfers and I like to take on challenges like this, and like I said, at the worst I'll end up with a nice patch of very nice flat lawn thats easy to mow!
As near as we can tell, it was on 4/29/2005 8:45 AM when GS transmitted as follows:
The Rev wrote:>
GS wrote:>>
The Rev wrote:>>>
My advice to you is to go visit your course's superintendent and>>
him a coffee. He'll tell you what works in your area and what>>
doesn't.>>
Where is your area, by the way?>>>>
Northern Alberta>>
...ah. Okay. *Definitely* go see your local supe, especially if by>> Northern Alberta you mean Fort McMurray as opposed to, say, Edmonton.>> My limited understanding of turfgrass management is pretty much limited>> to what'll grow in lower, warmer climes (the Maritimes and NE USA).>> The supe should be able to tell you about what holds up to a real>> winter.>>
Just try not to smack him when he says "go synthetic" >>
Good luck, Todd>>
Actually, 1/2 between the two places. I know they are possible up here, > as the courses have quite nice greens. I will see if I can contact the > local greenskeeper and get some info from him tho...>
Synthetic doesnt interest me in the least, my kids are the golfers and I > like to take on challenges like this, and like I said, at the worst I'll > end up with a nice patch of very nice flat lawn thats easy to mow!>
Slave Lake? They've got a pretty good course there, and I'm sure you'll get some tips, but it'll be an uphill struggle to build, grow and maintain a stand-alone green, but you already know that.
Most of the greens in Alberta are Poa Annua, although most started as bentgrass. Bent will winter quite well, but Poa takes a lot of heat to grow and often comes through the winter very patchy. With a short season to start with, you're probably looking at 4 good months of putting.
-- Doug Main "Hard work never killed anyone. But why take the chance?" -Roy, metal worker, American Hotrod.
Doug Main wrote:> As near as we can tell, it was on 4/29/2005 8:45 AM when GS transmitted > as follows:>
The Rev wrote:>>
GS wrote:>>>
The Rev wrote:>>>>
My advice to you is to go visit your course's superintendent and>>>
him a coffee. He'll tell you what works in your area and what>>>
doesn't.>>>
Where is your area, by the way?>>>>>
Northern Alberta>>>
...ah. Okay. *Definitely* go see your local supe, especially if by>>> Northern Alberta you mean Fort McMurray as opposed to, say, Edmonton.>>> My limited understanding of turfgrass management is pretty much limited>>> to what'll grow in lower, warmer climes (the Maritimes and NE USA).>>> The supe should be able to tell you about what holds up to a real>>> winter.>>>
Just try not to smack him when he says "go synthetic" >>>
Good luck, Todd>>>
Actually, 1/2 between the two places. I know they are possible up >> here, as the courses have quite nice greens. I will see if I can >> contact the local greenskeeper and get some info from him tho...>>
Synthetic doesnt interest me in the least, my kids are the golfers and >> I like to take on challenges like this, and like I said, at the worst >> I'll end up with a nice patch of very nice flat lawn thats easy to mow!>>
Slave Lake? They've got a pretty good course there, and I'm sure you'll > get some tips, but it'll be an uphill struggle to build, grow and > maintain a stand-alone green, but you already know that.>
Most of the greens in Alberta are Poa Annua, although most started as > bentgrass. Bent will winter quite well, but Poa takes a lot of heat to > grow and often comes through the winter very patchy. With a short season > to start with, you're probably looking at 4 good months of putting.>
Lac La Biche - I talked to the assistant pro briefly,(the greenskeeper wasnt in) but he said that they have POA in the greens but they are trying to get rid of it, thats why I was under the impression that it was more of a pest than something you'd seed. I've got my area covered with black poly now to kill the few weeds that took hold after I rototilled it late last year, I'll leave that on for a while longer then my neighbor, who's lot is very sandy, said I could help myself to the huge pile in front of his house left over from his basement (new house)
The ground is gently sloped and on the edge of a bank, so I dont think drainage will be a problem, there is topsoil on the clay, so I'm thinking maybe just a good layer of course sand with a top layer of sand & peat may do, but I'll confer with the local greenskeeper and see if I should put a layer of gravel down first...
ps. supposed to be back up to 15 or so in a few days, so hang in there! I'm crossing my fingers hoping my RV doesnt freeze, as usual the early warm weather fooled me and I de-winterized it!
