Yes they will fit. The new ones will also be lighter than your old ones. What length did you get? I have the 114's on my freestyle unicycle and I like them a lot.
tylercox wrote:> *I got the 114. You are my hero, I thought I had spent 56 bucks for> nothing!!! Now, do you think they'll get it here by friday or> saturday? *
I'll bring some extra cranks to the uni meet just in case. So don't worry. If you don't get the cranks in time just bring the unicycle as it is and we'll find you some cranks you can borrow for the day. Just send me a reminder of Friday so I don't forget.
They should get there in time no problem. When I snapped my hub about a month ago, I ordered it on Monday and got in on Thursday, and it was the second fastest shipping I could get, not next-day. Be glad cranks are something you can change yourself, unlike hubs!
Thanks a bunch, John! I'll tell you on friday if they come or not. That would suck it they didn't cuz that'd be 40 bucks that I didn't need to spend, but who cares, that just means I get to ride sooner!!! One more thing, when I ride the pedal wobbles back and forth a little bit. Does this mean it's the cranks or the pedal? (please say cranks...)
I'm past my edit limit, but when I said the pedal wobbles back and forth, I meant side to side and a little bit up and down on one side of the pedal. I think it's the cranks cuz that's what it was like when I bent the cranks on my torker CX. Finally, are the alloys stronger than the others?
Grab the crank (not the pedal) and then push and pull on the crank. If you feel movement then the crank is loose.
You can tighten the crank using a 14mm socket wrench. The crank nuts should be tightened to about 35 or 40 foot-pounds of torque. That's pretty tight. It's the equivalent of hanging a 40 pound weight at the end of a 1 foot long socket wrench (or an 80 pound weight at the end of a 6 inch long socket wrench). Have your dad tighten the crank nuts and try to estimate about 40 pounds of force at the end of the socket wrench. Even better would be to get a torque wrench so you'll know for sure how tight it is. Give your dad an excuse to buy some new tools (dad's like tools).
To remove the cranks you'll need a crank puller like this one: 'Park crank puller' (http://www.unicycle.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=421). If you don't have the tool you'll need to go to a bike shop to buy one, or you can just have them take the old cranks off and install the news ones. It would probably be about $5 labor to do the crank change.
With your new aluminum cranks it is much more important to pay attention to the cranks being tight enough. If aluminum cranks get loose they will damage the taper sooner (because aluminum is softer than steel). Just riding around for just a short bit with a loose crank can ruin the crank.
i have ruined a pair of nimbus cranks due to not keeping a close enough eye on them. i tightened them whenever i could feel them getting loose. tighten them before you ride. ever time. for the next, oh 20 rides. then they should be good for a long time. but with alloy cranks keep a close eye on them.
tylercox wrote:> *so I could get em here by the uni convention on Saturday. *
Tyler, John,
What uni-convention?
Thanks, Bruce
-- yoopers - Bruce & Mary Edwards
Munipshcho on the art of raising children: "My job is not to keep them from falling. It's to teach them to always get back up." ------------------------------------------------------------------------ yoopers's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/31 View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/39385
Ok, I just went and pulled back and forth really hard on the crank and nothing moved. Does that reassure us that it's bent? Would a pic help? If so, here you go! (that was a sort of retorical question, wasn't it?!?) This is the supposedly bent crank:
Ok, I took the pedal off and switched it with the pedal off my 16" CX. I still felt the wobbling, just not as bad. Could it be both the pedal and crank? Well, even if it is just the pedal, I still get a nice new set of cranks! O yea, when I look at the supposedly bent crank, it looks like it faces a tad inward towards the wheel more than the other crank. Is this normal? Should I take it to my neighbor who can repair bikes and see what he has to say?
Yea, I think it might be both the pedal and crank are bent. I'll see if I can pick up some new pedals today at some bikeshop. I can definitely feel something even with new pedals, so I'm pretty sure the crank is bent too. Thanks for the help, John! I just hope the cranks come on time!!! Cross your fingers, eyes, toes, hairs, and ummm....any other body parts you can think of (*bad thoughts running through head*). Thanks again!
One more question...what pedals should I get if they do turn out to be bad (for freestyle of course)? John you might want to bring some extra pedals for me if we don't have time to get them by Saturday (if I find they are bent). I clocked the delivery time on unicycle.com and it said the cranks should be here by Thursday, so I'm optimistic. I'm gonna go downstairs and pop my supposedly bent pedals on my Torker and see if they feel weird on that non-broken uni before I go out and buy new pedals. I'll post again to tell you what happened after I'm done. Be back in a sec!
lol...it wasn't even a big drop, I just landed really hard right on the pedal and crank. It was probably only like a 1.5 feet. But hey, I've never done a jump bigger than 2 feet, so it was new to me. I've never even tried trials, although I would like to. Finally, I just got a shipping confirmation that says they'll be here tomorrow!!! YAY!!! Oh yea, John Childs or Steve DeK..., can I try some trials on your trials cycle? Also, can I try your muni and coker? I've never tried one before and I know you might possibly trust me on it (seeing my vids and stuff, you know my skill compared to other riders who you've never met). See ya Saturday!
Yes, but now I am getting better, Alloy cranks that are lighter and better than the old ones. I don't need a beefed up trials uni, but a quality, expert level freestyle unicycle, such as the Nimbus X.
Forrestunifreak 6 April 2005 06:09:25 [ permanent link ]
I myself think quality freestlye unicycles are useless.You can pay hudreds of dollars for one,amd then break somthing on a foot high drop.It would be better to buy a cheaper uni that could stand up to smaller drops,and then do freestyle on it.And have it in case you ever drop once.
Besides,its not all that hard to do freestyle on a trials or heavier duty uni.
KcTheAcy@School 6 April 2005 06:20:31 [ permanent link ]
forrestunifreak wrote:> *Besides,its not all that hard to do freestyle on a trials or heavier> duty uni. *
Ever try a pirouette or spin with 140mm cranks? Also doing freestyle with pinned pedals is not fun...Who wants to wear 661's when doing freestyle? Also trials tires have to much friction for some skills. Also trials unis can do some damage to gym floors.
tylercox wrote:> *lol...it wasn't even a big drop, I just landed really hard right on> the pedal and crank. It was probably only like a 1.5 feet. But hey,> I've never done a jump bigger than 2 feet, so it was new to me. I've> never even tried trials, although I would like to. Finally, I just> got a shipping confirmation that says they'll be here tomorrow!!! > YAY!!! Oh yea, John Childs or Steve DeK..., can I try> some trials on your trials cycle? Also, can I try your muni and> coker? I've never tried one before and I know you might possibly> trust me on it (seeing my vids and stuff, you know my skill compared> to other riders who you've never met). See ya Saturday! *
There'll be some extra unicycles of all types around. I don't think any of mine will go short enough for an 11 year old. I could try getting my spare Coker put back together with a short seatpost. I'll see what I can do.
As for new pedals, you can get some OK plastic pedals at Wal Mart or Fred Meyer for about $6 or so. They'll do for the time being. No need to make another emergency order just for pedals. You'll want 9/16 inch pedals. Fredy's and Wal Mart carry both the 1/2 inch and 9/16 inch pedal sizes. Make sure you get the 9/16 inch size.
Evan Byrne wrote:> *What was the i was tellingyou before you got the Nimbus?>
I belive i said "Don't get the Nimbus, Get the DX" *
The Torker DX is not a good freestyle unicycle for the traditional freestyle skills. That's the stuff that's in the levels and the standard skills.
The cranks on the DX are overkill for freestyle and are just too bulky. There's too much Q-factor. They're too bulky. The cranks are too long for pure freestyle and you can't get cranks shorter than 125mm on the DX. Tyler has been riding with 114mm cranks on his freestyle. Can't do that with a DX.
You can do freestyle on a 20" DX but it is not ideal.
The 20" DX is an oddball. It's not a freestyle unicycle and it's not a trials unicycle. It's more of a unicycle for someone who is really rough on equipment or someone who mixes in street style moves and freestyle moves. But it's not a unicycle I'd want to use for pure freestyle.
Getting a DX for pure freestyle would be like buying a full size SUV for pure city driving. Not the best performing tool for the job.
If aluminum cranks get loose they> >will damage the taper sooner (because aluminum is softer than> steel).>
John would you care to explain that? It sounds counterintuitive.> Does> it have to do with what you explained in the 'need some new cranks'> thread?>
Klaas Bil - Newsgroup Addict> --> "When it comes to the family jewels, you won't be having fun until> they're having fun. - Jake D" *
I was talking about the taper on the crank. Not the taper on the hub.
When an aluminum crank gets loose you are more likely to damage the aluminum crank taper than the steel hub taper because the aluminum is softer than steel. Once the taper on the cranks is damaged the cranks are pretty much toast. That's why it's important not to ride with loose cranks, especially if they're aluminum cranks.
I have a PP custom 20" freestyle and a 20" Summit trials uni, and both can be tossed into the pool for this weekend's ride. Either should be able to fit the odd 11-year-old.
Only trick is someone would need to get them from me by end of day Thursday, and my schedule is packed so I would not be able to drive far.
john_childs wrote:> *I was talking about the taper on the crank. Not the taper on the> hub.* That explains the misunderstanding. Thanks, my world is still intact - or at least as intact as it was.
Ok, the cranks came and a local b*ke shop is installing them. The dude said that we could pick it up tomorrow and he said I could test it out there to make sure the pedal wasn't bent also. He seemed like he knew his unicycles because the first thing he asked me after I told him I bent the cranks was "So, how big of a drop did you forget to roll out of?" There was also a customer in there who saw "unicycle.com" embroidered on my seat and he said he bought himself a uni there last night! They sell all the Torker unis (CX, LX, & DX) in there, so they must get a lot of uni customers. Anyway, John, no need to bring cranks to the meet!
No, but I do spins and pirouettes (not full three rev pirouettes yet, though) with 152 mm cranks, on a 24" wheel.
A real freestyle unicycle should make a big difference for freestyle riding. It should be lighter, hold a proper 20" tire (not a 19" trials tire) have a very low crown for gliding, a big square crown for support in stand-up wheel walk, and a long neck, to stop the clamp from scraping your legs during stand-up wheel walk and wheel walking with the feet behind the frame. Most trials unicycles do not fit those qualifications. Freestyle unicycles are far from useless; they're just not meant to take big drops, anymore than a standard Coker is.
