I'm looking for advice of what sort of road bike to buy. It shouldn't be too delicate because roads are not exactly ideal track conditions, and I'm planning to use it for middle-long distance rides rather than quick blasts, so a harsh racer wouldn't be ideal.
Given I'm about 5"5' and long in the leg for that height, plus it's pretty hilly here in Wales so lightness is a neccessity, what might this group reccommend as a reasonable hybrid between a tourer and a racer, given I've got maybe £1500 ($2750, Eur 2180) to spend on it?
I'm looking for advice of what sort of road bike to buy. It shouldn't> be too delicate because roads are not exactly ideal track conditions,> and I'm planning to use it for middle-long distance rides rather than> quick blasts, so a harsh racer wouldn't be ideal.>
Given I'm about 5"5' and long in the leg for that height, plus it's> pretty hilly here in Wales so lightness is a neccessity, what might> this group reccommend as a reasonable hybrid between a tourer and a> racer, given I've got maybe £1500 ($2750, Eur 2180) to spend on it?>
Thanks!>
James.
I'm and old CroMo guy, I have a '92 Bianchi Alfana set up for road (not crit) racing. When I was in peak condition my farthest ride was 85 miles in just less than 5 hrs. Find a good (reputable) local bike shop and explain to the owner what you want to do. They should be able to set you up with a good fit. BTW I ride exclusively on sew-ups (tubulars) in the long run they are cheaper than clinchers. They can run at less (some what) than the recommended pressure and they don't pinch flat. If you can afford titanium then go for it, otherwise stick with CroMo for comfort.
I'm looking for advice of what sort of road bike to buy. It shouldn't> be too delicate because roads are not exactly ideal track conditions,> and I'm planning to use it for middle-long distance rides rather than> quick blasts, so a harsh racer wouldn't be ideal.>
Given I'm about 5"5' and long in the leg for that height, plus it's> pretty hilly here in Wales so lightness is a neccessity, what might> this group reccommend as a reasonable hybrid between a tourer and a> racer, given I've got maybe £1500 ($2750, Eur 2180) to spend on it?
Why not a tourer? I think you may be overestimating the difference lightness will make. Recent estimates in another thread here in r.b.t. put the speed difference at approximately 0.1 mph up a 10% grade for a 3 pound difference in weight.
-- Benjamin Lewis
Although the moon is smaller than the earth, it is farther away.
I got a Cannondale Sport Road 1000 about a year ago, and I love it. It has an aluminum frame, and Campy Centaur parts for cranks and gears. I got lucky when I ordered it; they didn't have Centaur brake/shifters, so they gave me Record.
I got this primarily for commuting and light touring, and I think it's perfect for those. I was concerned that the frame would be too delicate, but I asked Cannondale before I bought it, and they assured me that it was rugged enough for those purposes. It's not quite a racing bike, but close enough.
"James" <none@here.com> wrote in message news:vl9i81proi17v3oqgc6mbid1qo33rolluf@4ax.com...> Comrades,>
I'm looking for advice of what sort of road bike to buy. It shouldn't> be too delicate because roads are not exactly ideal track conditions,> and I'm planning to use it for middle-long distance rides rather than> quick blasts, so a harsh racer wouldn't be ideal.>
Given I'm about 5"5' and long in the leg for that height, plus it's> pretty hilly here in Wales so lightness is a neccessity, what might> this group reccommend as a reasonable hybrid between a tourer and a> racer, given I've got maybe £1500 ($2750, Eur 2180) to spend on it?>
I'm and old CroMo guy, I have a '92 Bianchi Alfana set up for road (not > crit) racing. When I was in peak condition my farthest ride was 85 > miles in just less than 5 hrs. Find a good (reputable) local bike shop > and explain to the owner what you want to do. They should be able to > set you up with a good fit. BTW I ride exclusively on sew-ups > (tubulars) in the long run they are cheaper than clinchers. They can > run at less (some what) than the recommended pressure and they don't > pinch flat. If you can afford titanium then go for it, otherwise stick > with CroMo for comfort.
Good news! In the last decade things have improved! You can now get lighter bikes that will allow you to improve those times, and nobody has to screw around with tubulars any more.
I'm and old CroMo guy, I have a '92 Bianchi Alfana set up for road >> (not crit) racing. When I was in peak condition my farthest ride was >> 85 miles in just less than 5 hrs. Find a good (reputable) local bike >> shop and explain to the owner what you want to do. They should be >> able to set you up with a good fit. BTW I ride exclusively on sew-ups >> (tubulars) in the long run they are cheaper than clinchers. They can >> run at less (some what) than the recommended pressure and they don't >> pinch flat. If you can afford titanium then go for it, otherwise >> stick with CroMo for comfort.>
Good news! In the last decade things have improved! You can now get > lighter bikes that will allow you to improve those times, and nobody has > to screw around with tubulars any more.
I happen to like tubulars, I can change a flat in less than one minute, and tubulars *don't pinch flat*.
-- Roy Owen
Keep the leather side up, and the rubber side down.
I'm and old CroMo guy, I have a '92 Bianchi Alfana set up for road >>> (not crit) racing. When I was in peak condition my farthest ride was >>> 85 miles in just less than 5 hrs. Find a good (reputable) local bike >>> shop and explain to the owner what you want to do. They should be >>> able to set you up with a good fit. BTW I ride exclusively on >>> sew-ups (tubulars) in the long run they are cheaper than clinchers. >>> They can run at less (some what) than the recommended pressure and >>> they don't pinch flat. If you can afford titanium then go for it, >>> otherwise stick with CroMo for comfort.>>
Good news! In the last decade things have improved! You can now get >> lighter bikes that will allow you to improve those times, and nobody >> has to screw around with tubulars any more.>
I'm and old CroMo guy, I have a '92 Bianchi Alfana set up for road >>>> (not crit) racing. When I was in peak condition my farthest ride >>>> was 85 miles in just less than 5 hrs. Find a good (reputable) local >>>> bike shop and explain to the owner what you want to do. They should >>>> be able to set you up with a good fit. BTW I ride exclusively on >>>> sew-ups (tubulars) in the long run they are cheaper than clinchers. >>>> They can run at less (some what) than the recommended pressure and >>>> they don't pinch flat. If you can afford titanium then go for it, >>>> otherwise stick with CroMo for comfort.>>>
Good news! In the last decade things have improved! You can now get >>> lighter bikes that will allow you to improve those times, and nobody >>> has to screw around with tubulars any more.>>
I happen to like tubulars,>
Better stock up while you can.>
I can change a flat in less than one minute, >
Sure, but what about the second, third?>
and tubulars *don't pinch flat*.>
Sure, but clinchers don't roll.>
Properly glued Tubulars don't either.
-- Roy Owen
Keep the leather side up, and the rubber side down.
Quoting Roy Owen <none@nowhere.com>:>Peter Cole wrote:>>Roy Owen wrote:>>>and tubulars *don't pinch flat*.>>Sure, but clinchers don't roll.>Properly glued Tubulars don't either.
If we're allowed to specify proper installation, properly inflated clinchers don't pinch flat. -- David Damerell <damerell@chiark.greenend.org.uk> Kill the tomato! Today is Leicesterday, May.
David Damerell wrote:> Quoting Roy Owen <none@nowhere.com>:>
Peter Cole wrote:>>
Roy Owen wrote:>>>
and tubulars *don't pinch flat*.>>>
Sure, but clinchers don't roll.>>
Properly glued Tubulars don't either.>
If we're allowed to specify proper installation, properly inflated> clinchers don't pinch flat.
It's been my experience that they do. I've pinch flatted everything from 700c x 28 85 psi touring tires to 700c x 20 150 psi racing tires. Although the latter were more resistant.
-- Roy Owen
Keep the leather side up, and the rubber side down.
I happen to like tubulars, I can change a flat in less than one minute, > and tubulars *don't pinch flat*.
I happen to like clinchers. I can change a flat in approximately one minute, and I've never had a clincher pinch flat. If I run out of spare tubes (I bring several on long randonneur rides; they're very light and compact), I can always resort to the patch kit. As an added bonus, clinchers have lower rolling resistance than tubulars with road glue.
-- Benjamin Lewis
Although the moon is smaller than the earth, it is farther away.
Qui si parla Campagnolo wrote:> Peter Cole wrote:>
I happen to like tubulars,>>
Better stock up while you can.>>
I can change a flat in less than one minute,>>
Sure, but what about the second, third?>>
and tubulars *don't pinch flat*.>>
Sure, but clinchers don't roll.>
C'mon Peter, a little reality please, not hearsay or 4th hand info.>
Tubulars, a lot because high end, carbon wheels are tubular only, are> at their highest production level and subsequent sales levels in> probably the last 10 years. More are sold today than ever in the last> decade and are a much bigger percentage than you imply.
Got any numbers to back that claim up? Boulder must be way ahead of Boston, the trend hasn't shown up here yet. Tubular riders are easy to spot because of their bulging pockets.
Most tubular riders with 1 spare tire will have the same experience as> I. I have had more than 1 flat on one ride twice since 1985, when I> started riding tubulars. I get VERY few flats, where my clincher riding> buddies get many.
Why would clinchers get more, barring pinch flats (I've never actually had a pinch flat, so that's at least as much hearsay as rolling tubulars).
Clinchers when flat roll off the rim frequently. Tubulars glued on> properly, do not. I have never had a tire I have glued on roll, again> on my own and on the hundreds of tubulars I have glued for others.
Never rolled a clincher off the rim, either.
So, if ya got some 1st hand info about tubulars, please share it. If> you don't, share your misinformation with your clincher riding buddies> at the coffee shop.
Oh yeah -- what do you "share" with your tubular buddies? How to wash wool shorts? <neener, neener>.
I'm looking for advice of what sort of road bike to buy. It shouldn't> be too delicate because roads are not exactly ideal track conditions,> and I'm planning to use it for middle-long distance rides rather than> quick blasts, so a harsh racer wouldn't be ideal.>
Given I'm about 5"5' and long in the leg for that height, plus it's> pretty hilly here in Wales so lightness is a neccessity, what might> this group reccommend as a reasonable hybrid between a tourer and a> racer, given I've got maybe £1500 ($2750, Eur 2180) to spend on it?
Most novices spend way too much on the bike, and not enough on the clothing and accessories that make a much bigger difference in their riding experience. This is especially true where the local weather is changeable.
Don't forget the tools and spares you shouldn't be without when hitting the road.
Though I have a light bike myself, I think the importance of weight is grossly exaggerated. Fit and comfort are paramount. Suitable gearing would be next. Finally, rolling resistance, ie good tires, can make a big difference. Weight is far less important than any of these things.
Additionally, clearance for fatter tires and fenders is very useful. Unfortunately it's hard to find among sporty bikes. Fatter tires are *the* cure for rough roads. Fenders make riding in the rain a lot more comfortable. They can be removed when not needed. The extra clearance can also make the difference between riding home and walking, if you ever break a spoke.
While there's plenty of overlap, product lines are so different in the UK that it would be silly for me to try to advise you on particular bikes. But I hope my general advise is helpful. Actually there's a better selection of general purpose road bikes in the UK than in the US, where it's hard to find anything but minimalist, wannabe racer machines.
I'm looking for advice of what sort of road bike to buy. It shouldn't> be too delicate because roads are not exactly ideal track conditions,> and I'm planning to use it for middle-long distance rides rather than> quick blasts, so a harsh racer wouldn't be ideal.>
Given I'm about 5"5' and long in the leg for that height, plus it's> pretty hilly here in Wales so lightness is a neccessity, what might> this group reccommend as a reasonable hybrid between a tourer and a> racer, given I've got maybe £1500 ($2750, Eur 2180) to spend on it?
If roads aren't great, I'd stay away from fancy wheels. Think about service a year or more down the road. I wouldn't obsess over frame material/technology, it's mostly hype, and overpriced hype to boot. The frame is pretty much the least important thing to worry about, just find one that gives you the back angle you want. Beware of bikes with really tight clearances on brakes/forks/chain-seat stays, if you want to ride different tires in the future, you could be out of luck.
My cycling legs have attrophied badly in the past 6 years since I was> going regularly. The mountain bike is taken out all too occasionally. I> think the MB is partially responsible for my being left behind by racers,> mainly because they've got 1/2" slicks on (or whatever) compared with my> 3" nobbly tires, and the mountain bike does weigh a fair bit more. I> don't think the riding position on MB's are ideal for speed either.
I think you'll find the knobby tires make a much larger difference than the weight. Before I got my touring bike, I rode several brevets on a mountain bike with high pressure slick tires, and bar ends that allowed me to stretch out a little. In fact, it was on this bike that I got my best ever 200 km brevet time, although I confess I was drafting another cyclist who promised me a ride home for the entire second half of the ride. The main disadvantage to this bike was the lack of hand positions, and the difficulty of getting an aerodynamic profile in head winds.
-- Benjamin Lewis
Although the moon is smaller than the earth, it is farther away.
On Mon, 16 May 2005 21:30:54 -0400, "Nobody" <nobody@nowhere.com> wrote:
I got a Cannondale Sport Road 1000 about a year ago, and I love it. It has >an aluminum frame, and Campy Centaur parts for cranks and gears. I got lucky >when I ordered it; they didn't have Centaur brake/shifters, so they gave me >Record.>
I got this primarily for commuting and light touring, and I think it's >perfect for those. I was concerned that the frame would be too delicate, but >I asked Cannondale before I bought it, and they assured me that it was >rugged enough for those purposes. It's not quite a racing bike, but close >enough.
Sounds just the sort of thing I'm after - thanks - I'll look into it.
On 17 May 2005 05:43:21 -0700, "Qui si parla Campagnolo" <peter@vecchios.com> wrote:
James wrote:>> Comrades,>>
I'm looking for advice of what sort of road bike to buy. It>shouldn't>> be too delicate because roads are not exactly ideal track conditions,>> and I'm planning to use it for middle-long distance rides rather than>> quick blasts, so a harsh racer wouldn't be ideal.>>
Given I'm about 5"5' and long in the leg for that height, plus it's>> pretty hilly here in Wales so lightness is a neccessity, what might>> this group reccommend as a reasonable hybrid between a tourer and a>> racer, given I've got maybe £1500 ($2750, Eur 2180) to spend on it?>>
Thanks!>>
James.>
No real single answer but often you buy the bike shop rather than the>specific bicycle. many would work well for you.>
Not sure if local bike shops can do anatomic fits there, but a start>there is essential. Then a frame or bicycle that fits you. The frame is>the heart of the bicycle, and in importance, probably the>wheels(reliable) and saddle, the brakes. the rest is not that>important. Spend the majority of the $ on the frame/fork.
Did ask around about a fitting jig. I discounted those shops which had never heard of them, but it turns out they're not readily available in these parts. I found a Specialized Roubaix today which felt absolutely wonderful, and seemed to be exactly right for my size. There was a Trek 5000 for a bit more which also seemed to be part of me as soon as I'd sat on it.
However, the Trek 5000 did seem - although precise - a bit more twitchy. The ride was also harsher, and it seemed like the handlebars were rather too narrow (which might account for the tightness in directing it). Given this was indeed a pure racer, I'm leaning even more towards the Specialized.
The Trek 5000 was a pound or so lighter, but as other posters have pointed out, the odd pound doesn't really make very much difference.
For Nearly $3000, carbon is not out of ther question and high end steel>looks great, rides great, lasts forever.>
I would avoid aluminum, as the price is in the stiff that's not all>that important, like whiz bang seatposts and hbars and the like.>
I think a well fitting frame with Centaur components, nice set of>handbuilt wheels would be the ticket.
Handbuilt wheels eh? Maybe they could be used for special occasions. For the moment, I want to put a couple of thousand miles on the bike as standard... I've had a poor run of luck with wheels in the past, and would rather get used to the bike before risking anything that dear.
Your general advice is most certainly helpful, thank you.
Glad to hear it, thanks.
I'm making> an adaquate toolkit a priority, and will certainly look into clothing> too.
Clothing is of course dictated by local climate. Toolkits are pretty simple though -- a pump, spare tube, patch kit, multi-tool that fits all the bolts on your bike, and a small chain tool. You don't need to go overboard, but what you need -- you *really* need. Another thing -- it's a good idea to wrap your spare tube in a piece of canvas, so it doesn't get chafed through by the other things in your toolkit.
Tubulars, a lot because high end, carbon wheels are tubular only, are>> at their highest production level and subsequent sales levels in>> probably the last 10 years. More are sold today than ever in the last>> decade and are a much bigger percentage than you imply.>
Got any numbers to back that claim up? Boulder must be way ahead of> Boston, the trend hasn't shown up here yet. Tubular riders are easy to> spot because of their bulging pockets.
I don't have any numbers either, but it does seem tubies have been making a comeback, with the exotic wheel trend of late. The fussier it is, the more special it seems... to some people.
In article <3evlcfF58i5pU1@individual.net>, "Matt O'Toole" <matt@deltanet.com> wrote:
James wrote:>
Your general advice is most certainly helpful, thank you.>
Glad to hear it, thanks.>
I'm making> > an adaquate toolkit a priority, and will certainly look into clothing> > too.>
Clothing is of course dictated by local climate. Toolkits are pretty simple> though -- a pump, spare tube, patch kit, multi-tool that fits all the bolts on> your bike, and a small chain tool. You don't need to go overboard, but what you> need -- you *really* need. Another thing -- it's a good idea to wrap your spare> tube in a piece of canvas, so it doesn't get chafed through by the other things> in your toolkit.>
Happy riding!>
Matt O.
Keep a spoke wrench in your tool kit. I carry two tubes.
David wrote:> I usually go through a pair of Mavic T520 or A719 wheelset a year. > These are professionally built and are bloody expensive, but I ride in> all weather conditions.
Try KoolStop salmon-colored pads. The hard compound extends rim life significantly.
On Wed, 18 May 2005 06:44:53 GMT, Michael Press <jack@abc.net> wrote:
Clothing is of course dictated by local climate. Toolkits are pretty simple>> though -- a pump, spare tube, patch kit, multi-tool that fits all the bolts on>> your bike, and a small chain tool. You don't need to go overboard, but what you>> need -- you *really* need. Another thing -- it's a good idea to wrap your spare>> tube in a piece of canvas, so it doesn't get chafed through by the other things>> in your toolkit.>>
Happy riding!>>
Matt O.>
Keep a spoke wrench in your tool kit. I carry two tubes.
Throw in a spare tube, a patch kit, a set of tire bars, an inflating device*, a spare master link or pin, you're all set.
* I have a Topeak Road Morph pump on my older bike and I carry a CO2 inflator with my Lemond. I always carry at least 3 spare CO2 cartridges. I seldom get flats, with either bike, but if it was a more regular occurence, then I would carry the Road Morph pump on both bikes. All of the above, except the pump, fit in a medium sized seat bag and adds 2lbs to the bike.
If you like tubulars so much, I suspect you don't ride much either.>> I ride plenty of miles and with other riders. We all get flats and>> are glad to not have to return home and find the hole, unstitch the>> tubular, patch, sew, and latex glue the base tape back in place.>> Your one minute tire change is on the short end of the operation.
Define 'don't ride much'... I ride about 9000-11,000 miles per> year. on Tubies mostly, some on my fixie, wet weather bike. Not> mega-riding like you, but I gotta work some.
I don't know that I questioned whether you ride much but the originator of this claim for his tubulars had all the earmarks of a good bicycle owner who prefers esoteric stuff whether it has merit or not. For most (aka overwhelming and vast majority of) riders, there is neither performance, convenience, nor cost benefits to riding tubular tires.
On 18 May 2005 13:58:43 -0700, "Vee" <v.powell@excite.com> wrote:
That means you have many options. If I were looking for such a bike,>I'd think about the Rivendell Rambouillet, Comotion Nor'Wester, Giant>OCR Composite 1, and Cannondale T2000. If you don't know what frame>geometry you need, get fitted (at a good bike shop) and buy the bike>that fits you. If several bikes fit you, buy the one that's prettiest.> It's always worked for me.>Despite all the tire-talk on this thread, they don't matter so long as>you have two with air in them. A tire is a tire.>
-Vee
Hi, could you explain to us, what you mean when you say that a tire is a tire? And that they don't matter?
Are you saying that size, type of materials, etc just don't matter?
I'm looking forward to your reasoning and practical experience, that went into your conclusions.
On 18 May 2005 05:47:13 -0700, "Qui si parla Campagnolo" <peter@vecchios.com> wrote:
James wrote:>
Handbuilt wheels eh? Maybe they could be used for special occasions.>> For the moment, I want to put a couple of thousand miles on the bike>> as standard... I've had a poor run of luck with wheels in the past,>> and would rather get used to the bike before risking anything that>> dear.>>
Thanks for the comments!>>
James.>
'Handbuilt wheels', when compared to the 'wheels outta boxes', are>cheaper, more reliable, and really the 'standard', not the exception,>when it comes to having a well designed set that works everyday.
Handbuilt wheels? Sorry, I must have misunderstood. I thought you meant something specifically designed for one's particular weight, type of bike, anticipated riding conditions or something... what do you mean by handbuilt?
On Wed, 18 May 2005 00:09:20 -0700, Zoot Katz <zootkatz@operamail.com> wrote:
Tue, 17 May 2005 21:50:26 -0400, <3evlcfF58i5pU1@individual.net>,>"Matt O'Toole" <matt@deltanet.com> wrote:>
Another thing -- it's a good idea to wrap your spare>>tube in a piece of canvas, so it doesn't get chafed through by the other things>>in your toolkit.>>
Use old cotton tube socks. >Doubles as a glove for chain handling.>
I read that somewhere on the internet. >It's true.
On Thu, 19 May 2005 02:40:27 GMT, James <none@here.com> wrote:
'Handbuilt wheels', when compared to the 'wheels outta boxes', are>>cheaper, more reliable, and really the 'standard', not the exception,>>when it comes to having a well designed set that works everyday.>
Handbuilt wheels? Sorry, I must have misunderstood. I thought you>meant something specifically designed for one's particular weight,>type of bike, anticipated riding conditions or something... what do>you mean by handbuilt?
That is exactly what he meant. I think the cheaper part of it, is compared to boutique wheels.
I have a set of wheels "handbuilt" by Peter. I supplied Shimano DA-7700 hubs, Velocity Aerohead rims 28F 32R, and he built them up. They now have 3300 problem free miles.
I think tires are boring because>most are so much alike in practice. I think people who obsess over>them are tweakers. By "tweaker", I mean eccentric fuss-budget.
I tire of people like that, though I tend to tread lightly on them....
On Sat, 21 May 2005 00:29:41 GMT, Neil Brooks <Neil0502@yahoo.com> wrote:
"Vee" <v.powell@excite.com> wrote:>
I think tires are boring because>>most are so much alike in practice. I think people who obsess over>>them are tweakers. By "tweaker", I mean eccentric fuss-budget. >
I tire of people like that, though I tend to tread lightly on them....
Tire humor? When overdone, it can be very deflating.
On Sat, 21 May 2005 00:29:41 GMT, Neil Brooks <Neil0502@yahoo.com>>wrote:>
"Vee" <v.powell@excite.com> wrote:>>
I think tires are boring because>>>most are so much alike in practice. I think people who obsess over>>>them are tweakers. By "tweaker", I mean eccentric fuss-budget. >>
I tire of people like that, though I tend to tread lightly on them....>
Tire humor? When overdone, it can be very deflating.
This thread has left me as flat as any other, bar none.
Mark Hickey wrote:> Jeff Starr <jstarr@animalpc.com> wrote:>
On Sat, 21 May 2005 00:29:41 GMT, Neil Brooks <Neil0502@yahoo.com>>> wrote:>>
"Vee" <v.powell@excite.com> wrote:>>>
I think tires are boring because>>>> most are so much alike in practice. I think people who obsess over>>>> them are tweakers. By "tweaker", I mean eccentric fuss-budget.>>>
I tire of people like that, though I tend to tread lightly on>>> them....>>
Tire humor? When overdone, it can be very deflating.>
This thread has left me as flat as any other, bar none.
Ignoring all these /compound/ sentence structures, pppppsssssssssssssssssssssssssssssss!
On 20 May 2005 05:41:54 -0700, "Qui si parla Campagnolo" <peter@vecchios.com> wrote:
[...]>I mean a set designed for one's particular weight, type of bike,>anticipated riding conditions..what hand buiilts are, custom wheels,>not more but less expensive than the multitude of crappy wheels outta>boxes that are $800++++>
It's what we do, me and others.
Gotcha. And it's something I'll certainly be considering when these wheels have ran their course. The wheels currently on there seem fine to me, there's no point in replacing them - besides, I'm a bit skint having just bought a bike!
On Thu, 19 May 2005 03:42:30 GMT, Jeff Starr <jstarr@animalpc.com> wrote:>On Thu, 19 May 2005 02:40:27 GMT, James <none@here.com> wrote:>
'Handbuilt wheels', when compared to the 'wheels outta boxes', are>>>cheaper, more reliable, and really the 'standard', not the exception,>>>when it comes to having a well designed set that works everyday.>>
Handbuilt wheels? Sorry, I must have misunderstood. I thought you>>meant something specifically designed for one's particular weight,>>type of bike, anticipated riding conditions or something... what do>>you mean by handbuilt?>
That is exactly what he meant. I think the cheaper part of it, is>compared to boutique wheels.
Well, that and that factory wheels almost universally suffer from bad spoke breakage Right Quick, unless you do the second half of handbuilding a wheel on them anyway. Factory wheels don't last, unless hand-trued and tensioned by a good wheelbuilder.
On Tue, 24 May 2005 17:01:41 GMT, Jasper Janssen wrote:
Well, that and that factory wheels almost universally suffer from bad> spoke breakage Right Quick, unless you do the second half of handbuilding> a wheel on them anyway. Factory wheels don't last, unless hand-trued and> tensioned by a good wheelbuilder.
Then my Mavic Elites must be hand-built. I've abused them plenty over the last year or so, and they're as true as the day I bought them.
I mean a set designed for one's particular weight, type of bike,> anticipated riding conditions..what hand buiilts are, custom wheels,> not more but less expensive than the multitude of crappy wheels outta> boxes that are $800++++>
It's what we do, me and others.>
But what about the marketing budget for the wheels? Don't you want to pay for that? Oh, and for some really cool black spokes, too, and paint or anodizing on the rim, except where you have to brake, 'cause that adds value too. You guys are no fun and I can't get my buddies to say, "hey, nicely built and well-engineered set of wheels you have there" like I can get them to say, "wow, Kyrsiums, and cool overpriced Seven frame too!".
