"daytoncapri" <geisel@ameritech.net> wrote in message news:1151009220.902537.12750@i40g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...> Sequence of events - How to get from> 1. Broken Spoke to> 2. re-strung Rim to> 3. another broken spoke> 4. to New Wheel> in a little over two summers>
Late Summer 2004 - I bring in rear wheel rim to LBS with a broken> spoke. My LBS guy says (let's call him Elmo) - "if one spoke breaks,> then it's a sign of metal fatigue all the way around the rim, the best> option is to totally restring the rim with new spokes." "I say, "OK> Elmo, if that's what you think is best." The price is a little over> $75 for the job.
Elmo either doesn't know or is lying. He should have replaced one spoke.
I can be a klutz when it comes to bike repairs, and I look to my>> LBS guy to keep my bike in good shape.
If you can patch a punctured tube effectively then you can build your own wheels just as easily. You don't need to throw yourself at the mercy of some bicycle shop that prefers replacing components rather than repairing what's there.
Have I been a real chump and is it time to take my business>> elsewhere?
You are not, but Elmo probably disagrees with me. Some wheel> builders guarantee the wheels. Get your telephone book and start> calling bicycle shops. If nobody in your phone book will guarantee> the wheels they build, you will find wheel builders on the web who> do. Sorry about your trouble.
I think you'll have a hard time finding someone who will guarantee rims against cracking. Today rims are so poorly designed that they are destined to crack in a couple of thousand miles. As I said, no sockets equals cracked rims. Show me a rim that uses sockets today and I would guarantee such a wheel.
For most active riders with around 200 miles per week, that gives less than a six months before cracks appear. Meanwhile, socketed rims wore through from braking in about four or five years if ridden in the rain now and then.
jobst.brandt@stanfordalumni.org wrote:> Michael Press writes:>
I can be a klutz when it comes to bike repairs, and I look to my>>> LBS guy to keep my bike in good shape.>
If you can patch a punctured tube effectively then you can build your> own wheels just as easily. You don't need to throw yourself at the> mercy of some bicycle shop that prefers replacing components rather> than repairing what's there.>
Have I been a real chump and is it time to take my business>>> elsewhere?>
You are not, but Elmo probably disagrees with me. Some wheel>> builders guarantee the wheels. Get your telephone book and start>> calling bicycle shops. If nobody in your phone book will guarantee>> the wheels they build, you will find wheel builders on the web who>> do. Sorry about your trouble.>
I think you'll have a hard time finding someone who will guarantee> rims against cracking. Today rims are so poorly designed that they> are destined to crack in a couple of thousand miles. As I said, no> sockets equals cracked rims. Show me a rim that uses sockets today> and I would guarantee such a wheel.
I've a set of overly built 30mm deep aero section wheels, Mavic CX30 rims, with over 20K hard miles, no cracks. I built them using your book and writings as a guide.
How about the overly priced Mavic Open Pro, eyeleted, socketed yet, unfortunately, welded, machined, and anodized (not hard ano)?
For most active riders with around 200 miles per week, that gives less> than a six months before cracks appear. Meanwhile, socketed rims wore> through from braking in about four or five years if ridden in the rain> now and then.>
On 22 Jun 2006 17:36:17 -0700, carlfogel@comcast.net wrote:
[snip]>
Dear Dayton,>
Peter Chisholm, who posts here as qui si parla campagnolo, builds>wheels in Boulder, Colorado, and (I think) guarantees his work. You>could do worse than to email or call him at Vecchios and find out what>he can do for you:>
On Fri, 23 Jun 2006 02:55:32 +0000, jobst.brandt wrote:
Michael Press writes:>
I can be a klutz when it comes to bike repairs, and I look to my LBS>>> guy to keep my bike in good shape.>
If you can patch a punctured tube effectively then you can build your> own wheels just as easily. You don't need to throw yourself at the> mercy of some bicycle shop that prefers replacing components rather than> repairing what's there.>
Have I been a real chump and is it time to take my business elsewhere?>
You are not, but Elmo probably disagrees with me. Some wheel builders>> guarantee the wheels. Get your telephone book and start calling>> bicycle shops. If nobody in your phone book will guarantee the wheels>> they build, you will find wheel builders on the web who do. Sorry>> about your trouble.>
I think you'll have a hard time finding someone who will guarantee rims> against cracking. Today rims are so poorly designed that they are> destined to crack in a couple of thousand miles. As I said, no sockets> equals cracked rims. Show me a rim that uses sockets today and I would> guarantee such a wheel.
A friend has a pair of (socketed) Mavic CXP33 with 50k miles on them. These are silver too, not hard anodized or colored.
For most active riders with around 200 miles per week, that gives less> than a six months before cracks appear. Meanwhile, socketed rims wore> through from braking in about four or five years if ridden in the rain> now and then.
Several wheels that friends have replaced in the last few years had 10-15k on them. To some this might seem like a good service life, but none of these rims were actually worn out. They all cracked around the spoke holes. None had eyelets or sockets, and all were colored or hard anodized. I haven't seen a truly worn out rim in years.
"RS" <r_schiller@comcast.net> wrote in message news:L4qdnSm8bZBsHgbZnZ2dnUVZ_sOdnZ2d@comcast.com...> I'm about a year into cycling and first bike I bought, a used $200> hybrid, starting breaking spokes on the rear drive side which is very> common. I took it to a LBS and about $20-$25 they put a new spoke> on and trued it. Lasted a few months and broke another spoke. At that> point I figured I could replace spokes myself and did, though the> consensus from virtually all LBSs was that if it keeps breaking spokes,> say up to about 6 total, then I need a new rim and/or whole new wheel.>
I have found that when one spoke breaks then others aren't far behind. This is particularly true for an original wheel on the bike since you bought it. If you can fix it yourself then you can go right ahead. But if you need to take it to the LBS then you might just as well do the lot. A full rebuild for me with DT SWISS Alpine III spokes cost about the same as three visits for one spoke each, and I have a well built wheel with much stronger spokes and only made one visit to the shop and I have a 1 year warranty on the wheel.
However, you do need to find a good LBS shop. In fact I'd go further to an acknowledged expert wheelbuilder.
From your experience I suggest you go somewhere else. I have a LBS that doesn't sell bikes. Just repairs and other cycling stuff. Find a shop like that. Wilfred
In article <1151079277.795926.27020@c74g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>, "peter" <prathman@comcast.net> wrote:
Matt O'Toole wrote:>
Several wheels that friends have replaced in the last few years had 10-15k> > on them.>
I certainly hope such short service life isn't becoming the norm.>
I haven't seen a truly worn out rim in years.>
I wore out front rims on two of my bikes last year but neither was> particularly new. One is a Wolber GTX and the other is the original> Rigida 13-19. Neither shows any cracks or other defects but the> sidewalls are worn concave to the point where I no longer trust them.>
I have replacements for the 700c Wolber GTX but am open to suggestions> on a 27" (630 mm) rim with which to rebuild the wheel that had the> Rigida 13-19.
I run Sun CR-18. They work alright. Box construction, eyelets, no sockets, plenty of metal, no hard anodizing. They built up true.
Several wheels that friends have replaced in the last few years>>> had 10-15k on them.
I certainly hope such short service life isn't becoming the norm.
I haven't seen a truly worn out rim in years.
I wore out front rims on two of my bikes last year but neither was>> particularly new. One is a Wolber GTX and the other is the>> original Rigida 13-19. Neither shows any cracks or other defects>> but the sidewalls are worn concave to the point where I no longer>> trust them.
I have replacements for the 700c Wolber GTX but am open to>> suggestions on a 27" (630 mm) rim with which to rebuild the wheel>> that had the Rigida 13-19.
I run Sun CR-18. They work alright. Box construction, eyelets, no> sockets, plenty of metal, no hard anodizing. They built up true.
You didn't say whether they crack after 10,000 miles or not. That's what makes the difference net ween good and bad rims.> -- Jobst Brandt
In article <449c8bcc$0$65480$742ec2ed@news.sonic.net>, jobst.brandt@stanfordalumni.org wrote:
Michael Press writes:>
Several wheels that friends have replaced in the last few years> >>> had 10-15k on them.>
I certainly hope such short service life isn't becoming the norm.>
I haven't seen a truly worn out rim in years.>
I wore out front rims on two of my bikes last year but neither was> >> particularly new. One is a Wolber GTX and the other is the> >> original Rigida 13-19. Neither shows any cracks or other defects> >> but the sidewalls are worn concave to the point where I no longer> >> trust them.>
I have replacements for the 700c Wolber GTX but am open to> >> suggestions on a 27" (630 mm) rim with which to rebuild the wheel> >> that had the Rigida 13-19.>
I run Sun CR-18. They work alright. Box construction, eyelets, no> > sockets, plenty of metal, no hard anodizing. They built up true.>
You didn't say whether they crack after 10,000 miles or not. That's> what makes the difference net ween good and bad rims.
They have not cracked after 10,000 miles. I run fully socketed Torelli Master rims on the 700c bicycle. 630 rims are thin on the ground, and they could be much worse than the CR-18.
Several wheels that friends have replaced in the last few years>>>>> had 10-15k on them.
I certainly hope such short service life isn't becoming the norm.
I haven't seen a truly worn out rim in years.
I wore out front rims on two of my bikes last year but neither>>>> was particularly new. One is a Wolber GTX and the other is the>>>> original Rigida 13-19. Neither shows any cracks or other defects>>>> but the sidewalls are worn concave to the point where I no longer>>>> trust them.
I have replacements for the 700c Wolber GTX but am open to>>>> suggestions on a 27" (630 mm) rim with which to rebuild the wheel>>>> that had the Rigida 13-19.
I run Sun CR-18. They work alright. Box construction, eyelets, no>>> sockets, plenty of metal, no hard anodizing. They built up true.
You didn't say whether they crack after 10,000 miles or not.>> That's what makes the difference net ween good and bad rims.
They have not cracked after 10,000 miles. I run fully socketed> Torelli Master rims on the 700c bicycle. 630 rims are thin on the> ground, and they could be much worse than the CR-18.
I didn't notice that you said they had sockets but that's the means by which rims do not crack. That's the point. I haven't found a source for 700c rims with sockets or I would recommend them.
Yep. You are obviously someone who would rather try to get by with> a repair than a new wheel, so he tried to fix it twice.
You can't blame him for the broken spoke, and he tried once to> talk you into a new wheel, which you wouldn't go for, so the> fatigue that he had predicted got worse and the wheel failed.
You don't say how old the wheel is, but I expect the ones on bikes I> ride regularly to last 4 to 5 years.
I've got some rims that have lasted 30 years with no cracking... but they haven't been ridden in that time either. About how many miles use are you talking?
Buying the cheap wheel is probably false economy, too.
WHO said they were cheap?
Oh, and your wheels will last longer if you stop jumping stumps and> lose some weight...
If the rims don't get dented, they should withstand the use. As you should know, impact and steady loads only reduce stress in the wheel by slackening spokes. They don't get pulled out by jumping off curbs as my old bicycle shop guru believed when he saw me doing so in front of his shop... he voided my warranty and those of people who ride with me, at that time.
In article <449ca6ba$0$65463$742ec2ed@news.sonic.net>, jobst.brandt@stanfordalumni.org wrote:
Michael Press writes:>
Several wheels that friends have replaced in the last few years> >>>>> had 10-15k on them.>
I certainly hope such short service life isn't becoming the norm.>
I haven't seen a truly worn out rim in years.>
I wore out front rims on two of my bikes last year but neither> >>>> was particularly new. One is a Wolber GTX and the other is the> >>>> original Rigida 13-19. Neither shows any cracks or other defects> >>>> but the sidewalls are worn concave to the point where I no longer> >>>> trust them.>
I have replacements for the 700c Wolber GTX but am open to> >>>> suggestions on a 27" (630 mm) rim with which to rebuild the wheel> >>>> that had the Rigida 13-19.>
I run Sun CR-18. They work alright. Box construction, eyelets, no> >>> sockets, plenty of metal, no hard anodizing. They built up true.>
You didn't say whether they crack after 10,000 miles or not.> >> That's what makes the difference net ween good and bad rims.>
They have not cracked after 10,000 miles. I run fully socketed> > Torelli Master rims on the 700c bicycle. 630 rims are thin on the> > ground, and they could be much worse than the CR-18.>
I didn't notice that you said they had sockets but that's the means by> which rims do not crack. That's the point. I haven't found a source> for 700c rims with sockets or I would recommend them.
There may still be some Torelli Master rims in the distribution pipelines.
jobst.brandt@stanfordalumni.org wrote:> Michael Press writes:>
Several wheels that friends have replaced in the last few years>>>>>>had 10-15k on them.>
I certainly hope such short service life isn't becoming the norm.>
I haven't seen a truly worn out rim in years.>
I wore out front rims on two of my bikes last year but neither>>>>>was particularly new. One is a Wolber GTX and the other is the>>>>>original Rigida 13-19. Neither shows any cracks or other defects>>>>>but the sidewalls are worn concave to the point where I no longer>>>>>trust them.>
I have replacements for the 700c Wolber GTX but am open to>>>>>suggestions on a 27" (630 mm) rim with which to rebuild the wheel>>>>>that had the Rigida 13-19.>
I run Sun CR-18. They work alright. Box construction, eyelets, no>>>>sockets, plenty of metal, no hard anodizing. They built up true.>
You didn't say whether they crack after 10,000 miles or not.>>>That's what makes the difference net ween good and bad rims.>
They have not cracked after 10,000 miles. I run fully socketed>>Torelli Master rims on the 700c bicycle. 630 rims are thin on the>>ground, and they could be much worse than the CR-18.>
I didn't notice that you said they had sockets but that's the means by> which rims do not crack. That's the point. I haven't found a source> for 700c rims with sockets or I would recommend them.>
Jobst Brandt
eh? what's all this garbage about eyeletted rims not cracking? isn't it you that bleats about ma40's? they're double eyeletted. and what about pics being posted here of ma2's cracking. and open pro's.
otoh, what about non-eyeletted velocity rims and the cxp33's that don't crack? you're losing it jobst.
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