Re: okume kit kayak... Is the inner glass layer needed
Brian Nystrom 15 March 2006 03:58:27
gepeacock@gmail.com wrote:> Looking for experienced boat builders here. I am building an okume kit> kayak and am wondering if I can save weight by not placing a full glass> layer inside the hull.>
My thinking is that I can get away with only glassing the butt joints> and edges on the inside along with a thin coat of resin for> waterproofing. Yes its going to be weaker (no fiberglass to take the> compressive forces) but has anyone done any tests to see how much> weaker?
It's a lot weaker. Someone on the Kayak Building Forum (www.kayakforum.com) did a bunch of torture tests on a variety of layups. The differences in strength were pretty stiking.
Evan Gatehouse 15 March 2006 09:29:52 [ permanent link ]
gepeacock@gmail.com wrote:> Looking for experienced boat builders here. I am building an okume kit> kayak and am wondering if I can save weight by not placing a full glass> layer inside the hull.>
My thinking is that I can get away with only glassing the butt joints> and edges on the inside along with a thin coat of resin for> waterproofing. Yes its going to be weaker (no fiberglass to take the> compressive forces) but has anyone done any tests to see how much> weaker?>
If I have to I might just glass the cockpit area to help with required> durability (feet, stones and sand). Will this create any weird foces> beyond the bulkheads? (My boat will be 17 feet long).>
Links to experiments on this would be great!>
Thanks> Gary
How about asking the designer? If it's 4mm I would not omit the glass, for 6mm / 1/4" sure but that's my opinion
Gary, I made 20' rowing shell from 4mm okoume designed by clc boats. The instructions called only for fiberglass tape over filleted seams. Insted of 6oz prefabricated tape I used strips cut diagonally from 4oz fabric. This creates a kind of biaxial arrangement of fibers that allowed me to save some weight in glass. However I believe that the most weight saver are thin fillets. Epoxy is the heaviest component in the laminate. Removing glass will save some weight, but probably not as much as you might expect. You'll still have to epoxy the panels. Also cut and align the panels precisely so that there are no gaps thet need to be filled with epoxy. Remove the wires. If the instruction calls for nails for attaching the deck, use the screws instead. After the glue sets remove them and fill the holes with epoxy. Use masking tape when filleting and scrape any excess epoxy before it fully hardens. Apply thin epoxy coats with a squeegee and again scrape away any sags and runs. Scraper will be your most used tool at this stage.
Please be aware that rowing shell is not supposed to hit rocks.
<gepeacock@gmail.com> wrote in message news:1142367728.089194.275250@z34g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...> Looking for experienced boat builders here. I am building an okume kit> kayak and am wondering if I can save weight by not placing a full glass> layer inside the hull.>
My thinking is that I can get away with only glassing the butt joints> and edges on the inside along with a thin coat of resin for> waterproofing. Yes its going to be weaker (no fiberglass to take the> compressive forces) but has anyone done any tests to see how much> weaker?>
If I have to I might just glass the cockpit area to help with required> durability (feet, stones and sand). Will this create any weird foces> beyond the bulkheads? (My boat will be 17 feet long).>
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