I am routing a bunch of my wiring and while digging behind shelvs and
bunks I found 2 splices (lugs-3/8" nut/bolt-tape) in both cables and
two spots on one cable that had a nick in the insulation. The necks
had green powder spilling out and the cable was swelled. So I think
replacing is resonable here.
So what voltage drop is resonable for a windlass motor: 3% or 10% or
someplace in-between?
I think it sounds like it is time for re-wiring.
I wonder how well the cable used for welding leads would work for that. That has many fine conductors instead of fewer heavier conductors but I think that is a good thing in a high amperage DC situation. If that can be used it might be more economical because it is more widely used.
Electricky Dicky 17 May 2008 09:42:18 [ permanent link ]
On Fri, 16 May 2008 09:52:53 -0700 (PDT), Bob <freya2go@yahoo.com> wrote:
On May 15, 7:33pm, Richard Edwards
<poundeaterbu...@burrsblueyonder.co.uk> wrote:
Given the price of copper today you are going to spend a lot of dosh!
Yup..... should did this a few years ago.
Questions
Why not just replace with the same CSA as present?
Well, Im the kind of guy who does not trust the decessions of prior
owners.
What is the main reason for the change?
Richard
Hi Richard:
I am routing a bunch of my wiring and while digging behind shelvs and
bunks I found 2 splices (lugs-3/8" nut/bolt-tape) in both cables and
two spots on one cable that had a nick in the insulation. The necks
had green powder spilling out and the cable was swelled. So I think
replacing is resonable here.
So what voltage drop is resonable for a windlass motor: 3% or 10% or
someplace in-between?
Bob
Ok replacement sounds very valid. I cannot comment on cable sizes as I have no info on the motors discussed. However replacement with the same size cable as current is still valid. You are replacing because of crappy connections (which should not be there) and corrossion damage. If everything worked well with all of these faults then new cable of the same CSA will also work. Unless you feel that the current setup is oversized? Given that you may NEED the windlass when your battery is LOW go for the lowest % you can afford IMHO but no smaller than existing.
I fully expect your next post to say "Whilst further digging along the cable route I found more connections with a variety of different size cables between them". I have seen it before <G> Welding cable is a good option though "Calder" discusses moisture penetration IIRC. I have never seen problems except at badly made lugs but my work is freshwater inland. With welding cable, Hex crimped lugs and adhesive line heatshrink the installation would see you through the rest of your days <G>
On May 16, 11:22 am, Jack Erbes <jacker...@roadrunner.com> wrote:
I wonder how well the cable used for welding leads would work for that.
I hear it works well. But after seeing how the non tinned existing
cables got all puffy at a nick I can see the advanges of all tinned
wire.
Thanks for the link. Very useful !
Bob
I think you can find that kind of cable tinned also. My experience with welding cable was in using it for welding, not for other uses and in a corrosive environment. Attaching the fittings to the ends was one of the more important considerations in welding use as far as losing conductivity or/or creating power drops or localized hot spots. If you welded for a while and then handled the connectors and found them warm, it needed some attention for sure.
The normally used connectors were large, solid brass system of a various types of plugs and jacks and large ring eye terminal lugs for connecting the cables to the output lugs on the welders.
Tweco was a good quality brand for the connectors and widely used. Most of their connectors used a large diameter set screw to capture the stripped strands maintain pressure on them. I've also seen the ring eye lugs that were a hollow, heavy copper shell type lug that was swaged on with a 360 degree swage. Here are some examples of the Tweco stuff:
On Sat, 17 May 2008 16:42:39 -0700 (PDT), Bob <freya2go@yahoo.com> wrote:
I hear it works well. But after seeing how the non tinned existing
cables got all puffy at a nick I can see the advanges of all tinned
wire.
Welding cables must be very flexible, so they are made of a zillion very fine wires. This gives them a maximum surface area to corrode. The ends of any marine cable have to be covered with waterproof plastic, either something you paint on, or a heat shrunk sleeve. Otherwise salt will crawl into the cable from the ends.
On Sat, 17 May 2008 16:42:39 -0700 (PDT), Bob <freya2go@yahoo.com>
wrote:
I hear it works well. But after seeing how the non tinned existing
cables got all puffy at a nick I can see the advanges of all tinned
wire.
Welding cables must be very flexible, so they are made of a zillion
very fine wires. This gives them a maximum surface area to corrode.
The ends of any marine cable have to be covered with waterproof
plastic, either something you paint on, or a heat shrunk sleeve.
Otherwise salt will crawl into the cable from the ends.
And this is where I start the never ending, never to be won, argument for tinning the ends of a wire (either tinned or bare copper) before putting crimp on terminals on. I do that regularly and have been doing it for years. I like that it gives you a solid object to crimp down on and it also keep corrosion from getting started in a bundle of loose strands.
Visualize my wiring as always being well supported and not subject to pulling strains or the effects of vibration.
On Sun, 18 May 2008 11:55:09 -0400, Jack Erbes <jackerbes@roadrunner.com> wrote:
Richard Casady wrote:
On Sat, 17 May 2008 16:42:39 -0700 (PDT), Bob <freya2go@yahoo.com>
wrote:
I hear it works well. But after seeing how the non tinned existing
cables got all puffy at a nick I can see the advanges of all tinned
wire.
Welding cables must be very flexible, so they are made of a zillion
very fine wires. This gives them a maximum surface area to corrode.
The ends of any marine cable have to be covered with waterproof
plastic, either something you paint on, or a heat shrunk sleeve.
Otherwise salt will crawl into the cable from the ends.
And this is where I start the never ending, never to be won, argument
for tinning the ends of a wire (either tinned or bare copper) before
putting crimp on terminals on. I do that regularly and have been doing
it for years. I like that it gives you a solid object to crimp down on
and it also keep corrosion from getting started in a bundle of loose
strands.
Visualize my wiring as always being well supported and not subject to
pulling strains or the effects of vibration.
Jack
The welding cable that I use has tinned strands. One very minor but important point is that some cables have a clear wrap between wire and rubber. It is possible to strip the rubber leaving the "invisible" wrap in place. Subsequent crimping gives a very questionable joint <G> No, I have never done it, but "nearly" <G>
The point about a "zillion" strands is very valid, necessitating adhesive lined heatshrink in a marine environment. My cables only have half a zillion!
--
Richard
Email address is valid but remove burrs before sending!
On Sun, 18 May 2008 11:55:09 -0400, Jack Erbes <jackerbes@roadrunner.com> wrote:
Richard Casady wrote:
On Sat, 17 May 2008 16:42:39 -0700 (PDT), Bob <freya2go@yahoo.com>
wrote:
I hear it works well. But after seeing how the non tinned existing
cables got all puffy at a nick I can see the advanges of all tinned
wire.
Welding cables must be very flexible, so they are made of a zillion
very fine wires. This gives them a maximum surface area to corrode.
The ends of any marine cable have to be covered with waterproof
plastic, either something you paint on, or a heat shrunk sleeve.
Otherwise salt will crawl into the cable from the ends.
And this is where I start the never ending, never to be won, argument
for tinning the ends of a wire (either tinned or bare copper) before
putting crimp on terminals on. I do that regularly and have been doing
it for years. I like that it gives you a solid object to crimp down on
and it also keep corrosion from getting started in a bundle of loose
strands.
You could solder the joint after crimping. No chance of a corroded connection that way. They make 375 F melting solder 95% tin and 5% silver.Fill up any air space with solder instead of, eventually, salt.
