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Help! Need a new rudder for our Glen-L 12
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GYXU > Boats > Help! Need a new rudder for our Glen-L 12 17 May 2005 06:38:46
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Help! Need a new rudder for our Glen-L 12

Michiel 16 May 2005 01:00:37
 Hello,

Please bear with me while I give you the background on this.

A few years ago we bought the Glen-L 12 out of someone's front yard. I
suppose it was not a very careful purchase. After sailing it a few
times, I noticed some deficiencies with this boat: galvanized hardware
(not cool in salt or brackish water), peeling paint on the deck and
badly peeling / checking on the bottom.

Over the past two winters, I've carefully restored it. I removed the
carpeted floor and sanded the bilge, hull and deck down to the
fiberglass, or through the fiberglass wherever necessary. I dyed the
wood where necessary, replaced fiberglass, built up epoxy and
topcoated with Interlux Interthane Plus / Clear. Te deck is clear and
the bottom is coated with dark blue Interthane plus. I also replaced
all the hardware with stainless. It looked great!

After two years, we finally took it out to sail, despite not having
made a new floor in yet. On our first sailing trip after this
restoration the rudder broke. I hadn't worked on the rudder yet.

This was last summer. I'm finally getting to rebuilding the rudder
now. Yesterday I bought a few pieces of Philipine Mahogany and set out
to copy the design.

However, it seems the design has some flaws. The rudder stock (I think
this is what the part is called where the tiller attaches to the
rudder) is very narrow: a lot of force will work on a narrow piece of
wood. It seems obvious that the rudder would break under stress. What
makes this even worse is that the rudder points out an angle, rather
then pointing straight down. I think the reason for this is so that it
can kick up.

Another factor is that the boat seemed to have an extreme tendency to
head up, especially when the wind picks up. i often had the rudder at
a 40 degree angle before it broke. I would like to experiment with
trimming by tilting the mast forward, but I haven't had a chance to do
this yet.

I think I would like to sell this boat and find a faster or bigger
boat. But I would like to get it to the point where it can be used. A
couple of things I'd still like to do :

- fix rudder
- paint bilge with Awlgrip
- make open floor from cedar bars.

OK. This is the background. Thanks for reading through all this.

Now, I'd like to ask if anyone has any ideas for an improved rudder
design, or maybe you know of a good ready made rudder that I can just
buy? Or maybe you'd like to take over this project? (hope, hope) I'm
in central New Jersey.

I'd much appreciate any advise you might have.

Thank you.

Michiel
Add comment
William R. Watt 16 May 2005 19:05:07 [ permanent link ]
 
The rudder on my 20ft mahogony strip sailboat was 3/4" plywood rounded in
front and tapered in back. (taper to 1/8", or the thickness of the middle ply)
I broke the rudder cheeks running before a strong wind and had to replace
them, that's the two pices on either side at the top. It would not be
difficult to replace that sort of steering arrangement entirely. Maybe you can
replace your rudder cheeks with thicker ones made of plywood, and make a
plywood rudder as well. To do that measure the gap between the cheeks to
see how thick the plywood for the rudder has to be.

Good luck.


--
-------------------­--------------------­--------------------­-------------------
William R Watt National Capital FreeNet Ottawa's free community network
homepage: www.ncf.ca/~ag384/t­op.htm
warning: non-FreeNet email must have "notspam" in subject or it's returned
Add comment
Michiel 17 May 2005 06:30:28 [ permanent link ]
 On 15 May 2005 23:48:14 -0700, mike.e.worrall@abc.­com wrote:
Glen-L's customer service is very responsive. Too, their 'boatbuilder>connec­tion' at www.glen-l.com is an active forum with lots of Glen-L>builders who will likely have some thoughts on your predicament.>
Awlgrip in the *bilge*...? A curious choice!>
MW

Thanks Mike, I'll give the Glen-L forum a try.

I didn't mean to say Awlgrip. I want to use TileClad HS for the bilge,
not Awlgrip. A good two part epoxy that can put up with some water.

I think beige will look nice.

Michiel
Add comment
Michiel 17 May 2005 06:38:46 [ permanent link ]
 On 16 May 2005 15:05:07 GMT, ag384@FreeNet.Carle­ton.CA (William R.
Watt) wrote:
The rudder on my 20ft mahogony strip sailboat was 3/4" plywood rounded in>front and tapered in back. (taper to 1/8", or the thickness of the middle ply)>I broke the rudder cheeks running before a strong wind and had to replace>them, that's the two pices on either side at the top. It would not be>difficult to replace that sort of steering arrangement entirely. Maybe you can>replace your rudder cheeks with thicker ones made of plywood, and make a>plywood rudder as well. To do that measure the gap between the cheeks to>see how thick the plywood for the rudder has to be.>
Good luck.


Thanks for your reply. The rudder on my boat is simpler. The rudder
itself doesn't pivot, but there is a pintle bracket that can used so
that the whole rudder can swing up. It's not an ideal system.

I would prefer a kick up rudder like the one you have, but perhaps
with a stainless rudder stock instead of plywood.

Michiel
PS: I made a Java applet to calculate cutting depths to make Naca foil
shapes. It's not finished and my Java skills and time are insufficient
to make it into something that's easy to use. Maybe someone else would
like to pick it up and finish it?
Add comment
 

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GYXU > Boats > Help! Need a new rudder for our Glen-L 12 17 May 2005 06:38:46
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