I too have been removing the screws and injecting West System. But I do not re-drill since I believe this can expose the wood again. Once the holes stop soaking in the epoxy I re-screw them before it sets up. Careful taping and clean up are important to not turning this into a disaster. But it does allow me to do as much as I want at a time. So far all the leaks have stopped and no new ones have appeared. Eventually the entire area will be done. BTW, this is only the cockpit area. The rest of the decks are fiberglass. Another method would be to epoxy the teak to the deck with screws and fender washer ON TOP of the teak. Then fill the holes after the epoxy has set and the screws are removed permanently.
The wood was bedded with polysulfide. Taking it up with the air chisel > resulted> is an impressive pile of toothpicks.
An unfortunate thing you point out, polysulfide. It has been pointed out that the polysulfide sealents all these boats were made with is good for 20 years. Maybe 25.
Lew Hodgett 22 February 2005 03:50:01 [ permanent link ]
Jim wrote:
An unfortunate thing you point out, polysulfide. It has been pointed > out that the polysulfide sealents all these boats were made with is good > for 20 years. Maybe 25.
That should start to give you some idea where my $2K estimate came from.
This has been exactly the winter I wanted. Heavy rain then a period of dry to fix leaks, then more heavy rain. All leaks fixed, and then a long period of very heavy rain. No leaks anywhere. Finally.
